Ilkka VirtanenThe Night Train to Rovaniemi Taught Me to Stop Checking the Time
Twelve hours north from Helsinki in a tiny cabin, with reindeer on the tracks and nowhere to be until morning.
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Ilkka Virtanen
Sofia AlvarezSeville to Lisbon Without Flying: The Slow Route Worth the Extra Day
There is no direct train between two of Iberia's loveliest cities, and that turns out to be the best thing about the journey.
Ilkka VirtanenThree Days on a Finnish Archipelago Island With No Shop and One Sauna
How a tiny rocky island in the Turku archipelago made me plan my food, count my water and finally sleep.
Sofia AlvarezThe Night Train Packing List I Actually Use
After many sleeper trains across Europe, my bag has shrunk to the few things that genuinely make the night better.
Ilkka VirtanenMidsummer in a Cabin Without Electricity Is the Only Holiday I Need
Every June I go back to the same lakeside cabin in central Finland, and every year the nightless night does the same quiet work on me.
Sofia AlvarezOne Week in One Small Town Taught Me More Than Ten Cities
I stopped trying to see everything and stayed seven days in a single Italian hill town. Here is what changed.
